Lilac Time

Materials

Yeoman Fine Crepe
Colour 13 Lilac
1 Cone knit 3 fold

Sizes

To fit Bust 34 (36:38:40:42:44) inches
87 (92:97:102:107:112) cm
Actual all round measurement 38 (40:42:44:46:48) inches
97 (102:107:112:117:122) cm

Main Tension

30sts and 42 rows to 10cm measured over stocking stitch after sample has been washed and lightly pressed.

Machines

These instructions are written for standard gauge machines with ribber or Electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965 electronic.

Notes

When patterns are submitted to Machine Knitting Monthly they have to be changed to suit the magazine format. This pattern appears as originally written. All decreases and increases are made fully fashioned (except on sleevehead) using a 3 pronged transfer tool.

Back

Push 146 (154:162:170:178:186) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for full needle rib. Set tension dials on both beds to 0/0 knit one row and hang cast on comb and add weights. Increase the tension by 3 clicks on both beds and knit the circular rows. Set tension dial on both beds to1/1 and knit closing row. If its too difficult on your machine, keep increasing the tension dial by one click at a time until the carriage will go across. RC000 TD2/2 on both beds knit 20 rows. Transfer sts to main bed. Set RC000 TD6 Start side shaping. Knit 6 rows, dec 1 st at each end of the next and every following 6th row to RC42 (7 decs made each side). Work straight to RC76. Increase 1 st at each end of the next and every following 6th row to RC114 (7 increases made each side). Knit to RC124 and put a marker at each end. RC000 decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC40 (20 dec. made each side). Continue straight to RC100 and divide for back neck shaping. Put a marker between centre Ns. Cast off the centre 38 sts and put Ns on left to hold position and set carriage to hold. Working on the right side knit 1 row. Dec.1st on neck edge on the next row. Start shoulder slope. Continue to dec. 1st on the neck edge on the next 8 rows, at the same time cast off 5(6:6:8:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit 1 row. Now cast off 5(6:7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit one row. Cast off remaining 5(5:7:7:9:9) sts. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front

Push 146 (154:162:170:178:186) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for full needle rib. Work as for back to RC124 and put a marker at each end. RC000 decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC18, start V neck shaping. Continuing to decrease on armhole edge as before, decrease1 st on neck edge on the next row. Knit 2 rows (RC21) decrease 1 st beginning the next and every following 3rd row until 28 decreases have been made on neck edge RC100, knit 2 more rows and start shoulder slope. Cast off 5 (6:6:8:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit 1 row. Now cast off 5 (6:7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit one row. Cast off remaining 5(5:7:7:9:9) sts. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Push 72(74:76:78:80:82) Ns to WP on both beds for full needle rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2/2 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed. Increases on the sleeve are worked fully fashioned (optional). For those not sure move 3sts outwards and take the heel of the 4th st and place on empty Nd. RC000 TD6 Knit 2 rows. Shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of t he next and every foll 5th row to RC28 when 84(86:88:90:92:94)Ns. will be in work. Knit 3 rows (RC31). Increasing 1st each end next and every following 6th row knit to RC116 when you will have 114(116:118:120:122:124)Ns in work. Knit to RC120 and place a marker at each end of row. Now decrease 1st at each end of next and every following alternate row to RC160 (20 dec made each side). The next decreases are best done not fully fashioned as this makes a neater seam on the sleeve head. Now decrease 1 st each end of every row to RC182 (22 dec made each side). Decrease 1 st each end next and every following alternate row 3 times (RC 188). Place a marker between the 2 centre Ns and cast off remaining 24(26:28:30:32:34) sts.

Neck Frill Left side

Push 95 Ns each side of centre to working position on both beds and arrange for full needle rib (190 Ns). Using yarn twofold Cast on and knit selvedge. On main bed, working on the right push every 6th Nd to hold position and switch carriage to hold. RC000 TD4/4 knit 2 rows, on the right decrease 1 st on both beds fully fashioned using a 2 pronged transfer tool. Knit 2 rows and repeat decreasings. Knit 1 row and cancel hold, knit closing row. Transfer all sts main bed. Knit 2 rows then decrease 1 st still on the right (not FF) Repeat the last 2 rows and decreasing to RC28 ommitting the decreasing on last 2 rows (12 dec made all told). Remove on W/Y

Neck Frill Right side

Follow as for left reversing shapings.

Blocking frill pieces

Run a binding wire across the top of the scallops on the first row of plain knitting.Take a length of paper about 6 x 30 inches, old wallpaper is ideal. Draw 2 straight lines 1 inch apart all the way across and lay on a surface that can be pinned to. Pin binding wire to top line all the way along, pull each scallop to a point and pin as in Diagram 1, press.

Adding frill to neck

Push 45Ns right of centre and 44Ns left to working position for left hand side of neck. Take left side of frill and with wrong side facing, working from the right place 2 sts from the last row on each needle leaving WY in place (decreased edge will be on the right). Join back and front together at shoulders and press seam. With wrong side of garment facing place centre back neck on Nd 44 on the left and centre of V on Nd 45 on the right. Place the shoulder seam in between Ns 20 and 21 on the left pulling those Ns through either side, pick up remainder of neck evenly across the bed, push all Ns to hold position to ensure all sts knit off correctly. RC000 TD4 Using yarn threefold knit 11 rows, TD 8 knit 1 row and cast off. Remove WY.

Complete right side to match reversing shapings. Join shaped centre front of frill using mattress stitch.

Making Up

Block sleeves to shape and press according to yarn label. Set sleeves into armhole matching markers, placing centre sleeve marker at shoulder seam and stitch. Join welt and side seam using mattress stitch and join sleeve seam having mattress stitched cuff welt. Press all seams.

Join centre back and front of frill using matress stitch. Join roll edge seams at back and front, rolling the front up quite firmly and catch down so it can’t move. Turn to inside and with a few stitches draw the V together to form a nice V at the front.

Depth of V neck 20cm

A 48, 50.5, 53, 56, 58.5, 61cm

B 6 cm

C 30.5cm

D 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26, 26.5, 26.5 cm

E 2.5cm

F 35, 37.5, 40, 43, 45, 48 cm

G 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5 cm

H 23 cm

I 30 cm

J 17 cm

K 39, 39