Carl Boyd » Techniques

Five Petal Flower in 4 Ply yarn

Carl Boyd — Wed, 15 Sep 2010 15:49:32 +0000

Push 50 Ns to WP and cast on using weaving method, TD4 knit 4 rows. Push 40 Ns to hold position and set carriage to hold, working on the 10 Ns knit 8 rows (as you start to get slight build up insert 3 pronged tool into leaf and pull downwards). Decrease 1 st each end, knit 1 row, decrease another stitch each end, knit 1 row. Repeat last row once more and cast off remaining 4 sts, this completes one leaf. Repeat on each of the next 10 Ns moving up the right hand claw weight on comb as each leaf is completed so it is under the next leaf. After 3 leaves I removed comb and added claw weights. After sewing in the ends run a binding wire through cast on edge and press each leaf as in photograph. After pressing remove wire and pull on cast on thread to gather up edge, anchor off and join the ends together. Add a covered button or centre of your choice to finish off. Make larger and smaller flowers by adding or subtracting extra needles and knitting extra or less rows in place of the 8 rows. For example for a larger flower work over 12 Ns and knit 10 rows instead of 8 and decrease 4 times instead of 3. For a fuller flower put one inside the other, even 3 to create a bloom.

Carl

Creating with Knitted Appliqué

Carl Boyd — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 17:39:27 +0000

This is so easy to do and a great way to use up small amounts of yarn. First knit some samples roughly 60 sts by 60 rows to play about with, you will also need a base to work on so knit a sample

about 12-15 inches square or use the back or front of an old sweater. Draw some shapes on fine card (cereal box is ideal) a diamond, circle, paisley shape or heart, see diagram 1

the choice is yours. Draw the shape no bigger 3” x 4” so you dont start too large.

Diagram 1

For the first example I have used 3 simple leaf shapes. After laying them onto your sample in your chosen design, draw a line on each one of the shapes following a columb of stitches as in diagram 2,

Diagram 2

this is very important as you want the direction of knitting on the finished shape to be in line with the background stitches. Now lay the shapes onto the samples you are using for the applique, making sure that each end of the drawn line is exactly in line with the same columb of stitches. Draw around each one with a suitable marker and remove template. You now need to stitch around the shape before cutting out. I always use 4 stitch zig-zag as shown in Diagram 3 stitch No.2,

Diagram 3

if your machine does not have this facility just use the normal zig-zag closed up. Cut around the outside of stitching and lay shapes onto your marked fabric. After pinning or tacking in positon stitch around the outside making sure the needle goes just outside the cut edge using the same zig-zag stitch as in diagram 3. Press on the wrong side before applying the chosen edging to cover the stitching. As you can see on sample 1, 3 different edgings have been used, a purchased braid, a knitted shell edging which I’m sure everyone has knit at some time or other. and a knitted rouleau pressed flat.

Sample 1

The purchased braid was machined on and the other two sewn on by hand. To the green braid I added some of the pearls I have mentioned in previous articles, this gives a really professional finish.

For sample two I have knit a simple panel of mesh lace (Stitch World 104) adding the purchased daisy trim one side, for the other side I have again used knitted rouleau pressed flat.

Sample 2

This would look really good as a panel down the front of a sweater or as a decoration for a scatter cushion. Samples 3 and 4 are just to show you the different effects you can achieve, on the blue sample I have stitched the shell edging on the white lace by machining down the centre with a narrow zig-zag. The diamond edging on the next one was hand sewn giving a completely different effect.

Sample 3

This knitted appliqué could be used to great effect on felted knitting, I can see it as a motif on the back of a jacket. Just imagine how good a large felted bag would look decorated in this manner. The applications for knitted applique are endless and I hope you will send in pictures of ideas you have come up

Sample 4

with. I have never tried felting but it has always interested me, I am seriously thinking of doing some and would welcome any tips.

Carl

Creating Aran Style Tuck Stitch

Carl Boyd — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:27:04 +0000

It is quite surprising the effect that transferring certain stitches to the ribber bed has on basic tuck stitch patterns. The examples I will be showing you have all been taken from Brother’s Stitch World but are all 12 or 24 stitch patterns. It is vital that end needle selection must be switched off for this technique.

Sample 1

Sample 2

Punchcard 1

The first pattern I have chosen really demonstrates this technique. Sample No.1 shows the pattern Stitch World 258 knit as a straightforward tuck stitch. Sample No.2 shows that transferring the stitches marked on the puncard to the ribber bed, has a dramatic effect on the sample, immediately bringing it to life. The ribber bed tension is set to 2 numbers lower than the main bed, example main bed T7 ribber T5 depending on yarn being used. The yarn I have used is pure wool 4ply.

Sample 3

Sample 4

Punchcard 2

In Sample No.3 I have used Stitch World 259 a good basic tuck stitch which is really enhanced by the stitch transfer as shown in Sample No.4.

Sample 5

Sample 6

Punchcard 3

Sample No.5 Stitch World 265 is another tuck stitch that lends itself to this technique as can be seen in sample No.6 which is greatly enhanced by a simple stitch transfer.

With sample No.7 and 8 further interest could be added by cabling the stitches on the ribber bed on row 2 and every following 22^nd row thereafter.

Sample 7

Sample 8

Punchcard 4

This technique I used 12 years ago when I designed pattern No.49 The Aran Look. Because the shape and and loose fitting style is now out of date I would not advocate using this pattern, however the punchcard and technique is still worth looking at. I have knit Sample No.9 so you can see how effective this is and here are the instructions.

Sample 9

Punchcard 5

Transfer the sts marked on punchcard to ribber leaving main bed Ns out of work, for example transfer stitch on Ns 9, 11 and 12 left of centre to ribber and Ns 8, 10 and 11 right of centre and repeat across the bed. RC000 and both tuck buttons in on main bed knit to RC16. On ribber bed working on the first group of 6Ns left of centre cable the sts on Nds 15 and 17 transfering the inside Nds first then repeat on Ns 9 and 11 right of centre. Repeat on all groups across the bed. Repeating the cabling every 21 rows ie. RC37, 58 etc. When time permits I will create a new up to date pattern to use with this punchcard. I think it would work very well as a jacket.

Carl

Cable Magic With Pearls

Carl Boyd — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:55:21 +0000

For this article I am concentrating on the pearl trimming you buy by the metre which on average costs 40-50 pence per metre, this means you can decorate knitwear very inexpensively and as I am about to show you, very easily. Diagram No.1 shows you the pearls and braids used in all the samples.

Diagram 1

First knit a sample about 60 nds x 60 rows leaving needle 15 right of centre out of work ( knit about 4 rows before putting ndl 15 out of work ), press sample. With wrong side of sample facing place a finger behind the ladder and you will see how easy it is to see through.

Sample 1

Now take a length of pearl (cut slightly longer than required ) and place on right side of sample in line with the ladder, you can pin this in place if you prefer, I just held it in place with my left hand as I was working from left to right.

Working on the wrong side, pull two of the pearls through at the beginning of the ladder and secure. Pass the tapestry needle down through the ladder between the next 2 pearls and back up again pulling thread through, miss 2 threads of the ladder and pass needle between next 2 pearls etc, it’s as easy as that. Examine first row of pearls on sample No.1 and you can see there is a thread between each pearl. For the second row I simply worked from the right side and kept one row of stitches as my guide, because they are on top of the knitting and not following a ladder as a guide they stand out more.

Sample 2

For sample No.2 first row, I used the same method but stitched with a gold thread used double to achieve this lovely effect. For the second row I just added the finer beads each side stitching on with fine lilac thread. It’s so simple to do but the effect looks very professional.

Now that you can see how simple this is why not try something more ambitious like sample No.3.

Sample 3

Using paper or thin card (a cereal box is ideal) cut out a shape of your choice, diamond, circle, heart or as I did a simple paisley shape. Lay this on your sample right side up and draw around the outline with tailors chalk or similar marker.

Now using the same method as before sew pearls on following the outline, adding extra rows as you see fit. These pearls and beads are available in many colours and various thicknesses, there is no limit to what you can achieve. I would recommend if you are going to decorate a garment, doing it before you make it up. Don’t forget if you are doing this on a neckline, the pearls have no give. Just imagine doing a lovely job and then finding you could not get your head through !!!

Hopefully samples No.4 & 5 will give you the same feeling of excitement as it gave me when I discovered the technique.

Diagram 2

First look at diagram No.2 and see how easy the procedure is. Take a length of pearls, braid or even fine chain and simply thread up through the cable using one of the methods in the diagram, secure at both ends and the job is done.

Sample 5

Sample 4

It’s the simplicity of achieving such a stunning result that excited me so much. Also don’t forget you can do this on a bought garment, this of course means that manufacturers will quickly cotton on, so don’t forget you saw it here first. The other beauty of it is that when you tire of the look simply undo both ends and pull it out.

Really hope this and the previous article will spur you on to experiment. Its great fun to do and so rewarding. See pattern Sea Spray which was designed specifically for this technique.

Carl

Great Effects

dazzza — Sat, 24 Jan 2009 22:02:49 +0000

When I first retired from machine knitting I renewed my interest in dressmaking,and started making shirts and trousers for myself. It was then I discovered the wonderful trimmings one could now obtain in haberdashery and dress fabric shops which I realised could be used to great effect on knitwear. Having been absent from the industry for a number of years, I was also impressed with the number of novelty yarns now available from people like Yeoman and Uppingham yarns which can also be used to trim, rather than knit with. I decided to experiment and came up with various ideas which I am sure you will find useful.

For example look at sample No. 1,

Sample 1

this effect is achieved by leaving the desired number of needles at intervals out of work so a ladder is formed. Then simply thread the yarn into a large eyed tapestry needle (I used a double eyed transfer tool which works really well) pass it under one thread, miss two and repeat the process. A different look can be achieved simply by missing three threads, what could be simpler! In fact the first row I have used a ribbon yarn by Yeoman and the second row a very similar yarn by Uppingham. Of course you can use any narrow ribbon or try a velvet ribbon, knit a sample and experiment.

Sample No.2 is achieved by transferring a stitch to the adjacent needle,

Sample 2

knit 2 rows then transfer the same stitch, knit 2 rows etc. then simply weave in and out up the row . I have left the one row empty so you can see what it looks like. In fact if you left just 4 needles between the transfer and wove alternate rows you would create a very attractive lacy panel. If you want to weave across the knitting simply transfer every other stitch as you would for a picot edge and continue knitting.

For sample No.3 I purchased this lovely braid for just 44 pence per metre.

Sample 3

For the first column of braid, I transferred a stitch to adjacent needle, knit 2 rows, transferred the same stitch then knit 4 rows etc. For the second half of this column the process was reversed weaving under the 4 rows and over threads, this creates a completely different look. For the second column of this sample, the braid was simply stitched on, if you look close you can see the thread.

On sample No.4 all the examples are sewn on.

Sample 4

The broderie anglaise braid normally has ribbon threaded up the centre, instead I have sewn it directly onto the sample by inserting the needle or bodkin into one hole catching knitting underneath before coming out through next hole. Again I used the space dyed ribbon yarn from Uppingham Yarns. Many yarns can be used to put this braid on, narrow ribbon, gold fingering used two or fourfold, the same yarn as the sample used fourfold the list is endless. The lace sample is simply stitched on as is the fringe. All would look good placed at the base of the rib on a V neck making sure you mitre it at the point of the V.

For sample No.5 I could not resist this lovely guipure lace type braid which is just stitched on using the background yarn.

Sample 5

I placed it on a piece of knitting so I could calculate how many stitches would be required between the cables, in this case it was 21 sts. The cables were highlighted by doing a running stitch up the stitch each side of the cable using a white yarn of suitable thickness to tie in with the white of the braid.

For more trimming ideas see the cable magic article.

Carl