Materials

Forsell’s 4 ply pure wool.

1 Cone for the first 3 sizes and 2 Cones for the rest.

Colour used 156 Silver Grey

Sizes

To fit bust 87 (92:97:102:107) cm.

Actual all around measurement 97 (102:107:112:117) cm.

Main Tension

30 sts and 41 rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch TD7 approx.

Machines

These instructions are written for standard gauge punch card machines with ribber or electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 950i Electronic

Back

Push 146 (154:162:170:178) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows. Transfer sts to main bed. RC000 TD7 knit to RC124. Cast off 15 (16:16:17:18) sts beginning next 2 rows then knit straight to RC226. Divide for back neck shaping. Cast off the centre 38 sts and put Ns on left in hold position. Working on right side knit 1 row. Dec 1 st on the neck edge on the next row. Start shoulder slope. Continue to dec 1 st on neck edge on the next 8 rows at the same time cast off 6 (6:8:8:8) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once then 6 (7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row 3 times. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front

Follow as for back to RC104. Transfer the st left of centre to the Nd right of centre leaving empty Nd in work and knit 2 rows. Transfer the same st to the same Nd and knit 5 rows. Each hole consists of these 7 rows and resembles the number 8. Remembering to work armhole decreases when RC124 is reached,knit 2 more holes (21 rows total). Working from left of centre transfer st 14 to Nd 13,the centre as before and st 13 to Nd 14. Working on these groups of Ns knit 3 more holes (another 21 rows). Transfer st 27 to Nd 26 the other groups as before and st 26 to ND 27 and work 3 more holes (RC167). Transfer st 40 to Nd 39 the other groups as before ans st 39 to Nd 40. Knit 3 more holes stopping at RC200 to divide for front neck shaping. Cast off the centre 22 sts and put Ns on left in hold position. Keeping continuity of pattern and working on right side dec 1 st on the neck edge on the next 9 rows. Knit 1 row. On the neck edge dec 1 st on the next and every following alternate row 8 times. Start shoulder slope. Keeping neck edge straight cast off 6 (6:8:8:8) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once then 6 (7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row 3 times. Complete the left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeve

Push 96 Ns to WP. With WY cast on and knit several rows ending with COR. RC000 TD7 with MY in feeder A increasing 1 st every 5^th row,knit 6 rows. Transfer sts as for front but starting st 27 to Nd 26 working across to st 26 Nd 27. working on these 5 transfers knit 7 holes on the outside,10 holes each side of centre and 13 holes in the centre. Continuing to increase every 5^th row until 148 Ns are in WP (130 rows). Knit straight to RC168 and cast off.

Front Braids

Push Ns 1,3 and 4 left of centre and Ns 2 and 3 right of centre to WP. Insert punch card and lock on row 1. cast on using E wrap method and hang a small claw weight. Push centre Nd to hold and set carriage to hold. TD7 knit 6 rows, push centre Nd back to D position and 2 rows, then return Nd to hold. These 8 rows form 1 shell. Knit 15 shells for centre braid. The last shell is cast off to a point as follows, transfer the 2 sts each side to the 2 Ns each side of centre which are out of work and knit 1 row. Transfer outside sts to centre Nd knit 1 row. Break off yarn and pull the last st right through to anchor off and form a point. Knit 4 more braids consisting of 12 shells and 2 braids of 10 shells.

Sleeve Braids

Working as for front knit 2 braids of 14 shells,4 of 11 shells and 4 of 8 shells.

Cuffs

Push 64 Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. Using MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows. Transfer sts to main bed. Take the 14 shell braid with wrong side facing and pick up 2 sts each side of cast on edge and place on the centre 2 Ns,place the 11 shell braid on Ns 9 and 10 each side and the 8 shell braid on Ns 18 and 19 each side. Block sleeve to shape and press according to yarn label. With wrong side of sleeve facing pick up the last row of MY and pick up sts as follows,place 1 st onto the first Nd and 2 sts onto the 2nd repeat to end. Knit 1 row on a larger tension and cast off.

Collar

Push 130 Ns to WP. With MY cast on using E wrap method. RC000 TD6 knit 8 rows,TD5 knit 8 rows,TD4 knit 16 rows,TD5 knit 8 rows,TD6 knit 11 rows and remove on WY.

To Make Up

Block remaining pieces to shape and press according to yarn label omitting ribs. Thread braids into front as follows, take the 15 shell centre braid and thread yarn hanging from point into tapestry needle or double eyed transfer tool. With right side facing and working from neck shaping thread the braid down through top of first hole and pull all the way through to last shell. Now thread up through bottom of hole and pull through so that the bar across the hole goes across between 2 shells. Proceed in this manner down front of sweater to last shell, hold last shell flat to garment and stitch point down by passing the thread from point through to wrong side of garment and anchor off. Thread remainder of braids down front keeping the 10 shell braids for the outside row. Stitch braids firmly at neck edge and trim off any surplus. Thread sleeves in the same manner working from cuff up. Join shoulder seams and press. Stitch collar together and pin to neck edge placing seam at centre back,ensuring that collar overlaps neck edge by 3 rows of the main yarn. Attach by back stitching through last row of MY unravelling WY as you go. Fold collar in half and slip stitch to inside. Set sleeves into armholes and press. Join sleeve and side seams and press avoiding ribs.

For example look at sample No. 1,

Sample 1

this effect is achieved by leaving the desired number of needles at intervals out of work so a ladder is formed. Then simply thread the yarn into a large eyed tapestry needle (I used a double eyed transfer tool which works really well) pass it under one thread, miss two and repeat the process. A different look can be achieved simply by missing three threads, what could be simpler! In fact the first row I have used a ribbon yarn by Yeoman and the second row a very similar yarn by Uppingham. Of course you can use any narrow ribbon or try a velvet ribbon, knit a sample and experiment.

Sample No.2 is achieved by transferring a stitch to the adjacent needle,

Sample 2

knit 2 rows then transfer the same stitch, knit 2 rows etc. then simply weave in and out up the row . I have left the one row empty so you can see what it looks like. In fact if you left just 4 needles between the transfer and wove alternate rows you would create a very attractive lacy panel. If you want to weave across the knitting simply transfer every other stitch as you would for a picot edge and continue knitting.

For sample No.3 I purchased this lovely braid for just 44 pence per metre.

Sample 3

For the first column of braid, I transferred a stitch to adjacent needle, knit 2 rows, transferred the same stitch then knit 4 rows etc. For the second half of this column the process was reversed weaving under the 4 rows and over threads, this creates a completely different look. For the second column of this sample, the braid was simply stitched on, if you look close you can see the thread.

On sample No.4 all the examples are sewn on.

Sample 4

The broderie anglaise braid normally has ribbon threaded up the centre, instead I have sewn it directly onto the sample by inserting the needle or bodkin into one hole catching knitting underneath before coming out through next hole. Again I used the space dyed ribbon yarn from Uppingham Yarns. Many yarns can be used to put this braid on, narrow ribbon, gold fingering used two or fourfold, the same yarn as the sample used fourfold the list is endless. The lace sample is simply stitched on as is the fringe. All would look good placed at the base of the rib on a V neck making sure you mitre it at the point of the V.

For sample No.5 I could not resist this lovely guipure lace type braid which is just stitched on using the background yarn.

Sample 5

I placed it on a piece of knitting so I could calculate how many stitches would be required between the cables, in this case it was 21 sts. The cables were highlighted by doing a running stitch up the stitch each side of the cable using a white yarn of suitable thickness to tie in with the white of the braid.

For more trimming ideas see the cable magic article.

Carl