Materials

Forsell’s Sheepbreeds Fine

4ply Pure Wool

1 cone of 10024 Jacobs for main yarn

1 cone of 10020 Swaledale for contrast yarn

Sizes

To fit Chest 34 (36:38:40:42) inches

87(92:97:102:107) cm

Actual all round measurement

38 (40:42:44:46) inches

97 (102:107:112:117) cm

Main Tension

34 sts and 37 rows to 10cm measured over fairisle pattern after sample has been washed and pressed.

Machines

Standard gauge punchcard machines with or without ribber or Electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965 Electronic.

Note

As this is a fine yarn if you can knit welts on a lower tension do so. With the exception of the neckband I knit welts on TD1.

Back

Push 162 (170:178:186:196) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows and transfer sts to main bed. Insert punchcard and lock on row 1, select (set) Ns and unlock card. RC000 TD8 with MY in feeder A and CY in feeder B knit to RC120 and put marker at each end of row.

Continue to RC222 and make a note of pattern row. Divide for back neck shaping. With a spare length of yarn cast off the centre 46 sts and put Ns on left to hold position and switch carriage to hold. Working on the right side knit 1 row, on neck edge decrease 1 st on the next row. Start shoulder slope. Continue to decrease on the neck edge on the next 8 rows at the same time cast off 9 (10:12:13:14) sts beginning next row, knit one row. Cast off 10 (10:12:12:13) beginning next row, knit one row. Now cast off 10(11:11:12:13) sts beginning the next and following alternate row 3 times. Reset card to row noted and complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back to RC 198 and make a note of pattern row. Divide for front neck shapings. With a length of MY cast off the centre 30 sts and put Ns on left to hold position. Working on right side decrease 1 st on the neck edge on the next 10 rows then decrease 1 st on the next and following alternate row 7 times (24 rows total). Start shoulder slope. Keeping neck edge straight cast off 9 (10:12:13:14) sts beginning next row, knit one row. Now cast off 10 (10:12:12:13) beginning next row, knit one row. Now cast off 10 (11:11:12:13) sts beginning the next row and following alternate row 3 times. Reset card to row noted and complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Push 110 Ns to WP. With WY cast on and knit several rows ending with COL and break off yarn. Insert punchcard and lock on row 1, with MY knit 1 row at the same time selecting Ns and unlock card. RC000 TD8 with MY in feeder A and CY in feeder B increasing 1 st at each end of every 4^th row knit to RC152 (186 Ns in WP). Work straight to RC164 and cast off.

Cuffs

Push 64 Ns to WP on both beds and arrange as 2×1 rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows and transfer sts to main bed. With wrong side of sleeve facing and working from the right pick up sts onto Ns as follows. Put 2 sts on each of the first 6 Ns * then put 1 st on the next Nd and 2 sts on the next 9 Ns. Repeat from * to end. Knit 1 row on a larger tension and cast off.

Neckband

Push 142 (144:146:148:150) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. Cast on and knot selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 36 rows and transfer sts to main bed, TD6 and 2 dots knit 3 rows, put marker at centre front and remove from machine on WY.

To Make Up

Block all pieces to shape and press according to yarn label. Join neckband edges together using mattress stitch. Join shoulder seams and pin neckband to neck edge placing seam at centre back and marker centre front. Attach by back stitching through last row of MY unravelling WY as you go. Fold in half and slip stitch to inside. Join sleeves to body between markers and press seams. Join side and sleeve seams and press avoiding ribs.

A 51, 53.5, 56, 58.5, 61                                    B 28 cm

C 33 cm                                                              D 6.5 cm

E 20.5 cm                                                           F 2.5 cm

G 9 cm                                                                H 33 cm

I 48 cm                                                               J 6.5 cm                                         

K 56 cm

Forsells 4 ply Superwash Pure Wool

2 cones 643  Old Rose for ladies,  637 Taupe for men

Sizes

To fit Chest/Bust 34 (36:38:40:42:44) inches

                                   87 (92:97:102:107:112) cm

Actual all round measurement 38 (40:42:44:46:48) inches

                                                                97 (102:107:112:117:122) cm

Main Tension

31 sts and 40 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch after swatch has been washed and lightly steam pressed. TD7 approx.

Machines

Standard gauge machines with Lace Carriage with or without ribber or electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965 Electronic and can also be knit on a Brother 900, 940 or 950i.

Back

Push 148 (156:164:172:180:188) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 (if you can knit on a lower tension do so, I actually knit on TD1 and 1 dot), knit 34 rows and transfer sts to main bed. RC000 TD7 knit 20 rows. Join the punchcards together but do not join into a circle, insert and lock on row 1 (electronic owners enter patten No. and make first Nd position Yellow 12). Attach lace carriage and set to Fine Lace, do 2 movements of lace carriage (unlocking card after first movement), knit 2 rows then do 4 movements of lace carriage and knit 2 rows. Proceed in this manner to RC100, but do not operate the lace carriage on reaching 100 until you have changed the punchcard (electronic owners will have 120 flashing on electronic row counter, now program machine to knit from row 118-120 and stitch 1-24 with Nd position as before). Change to punchcard No.2 then operate lace carriage and continue to RC120 (130 for men).2^nd size only cast off 18 sts beginning the next row then 17 sts beginning next row. All other sizes cast off 18 sts beginning the next 2 rows. Continue in pattern to RC220 (240 for men). At this point I would recommend cut and sew for the neck but for those who prefer to shape make a note of pattern row and divide for back neck shaping. With a spare length of yarn cast off the centre 38 (38:38:42:42:42). With a nylon cord or length of WY knit through all the stitches on the left taking Ns back to A position. Working on the right side knit 1 row, on neck edge cast off 2 sts beginning next row. Start shoulder slope, continuing to decrease 1 stitch on the neck edge on the next 8 rows at the same time cast off 6 (7:7:8:9:9) sts beginning next row, knit 1 row. Cast off 6 (6:7:8:8:9) sts beginning next row, knit 1 row. Now cast off 5 (6:7:7:8:9) sts beginning next and following alternate row 3 times. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings, on the 2^nd size there will be 1 extra st to cast off.

Front

Work as for back to RC194 (214 for men) and divide for front neck shaping. With a spare length of MY cast off the centre 24 (24:24:28:28:28) sts and put Ns on left to hold and set main bed carriage to hold. Working on the right side knit 1 row, on the neck edge decrease 1 st on the next 9 rows, then 1 st on neck edge on the next and following alternate row 8 times. On the 3 larger sizes only knit 2 rows. Start shoulder slope . Keeping neck edge straight cast off 6 (7:7:8:9:9) sts beginning next row, knit 1 row. Cast off 6 (6:7:8:8:9) sts beginning next row, knit 1 row. Now cast off 5 (6:7:7:8:9) sts beginning next and following alternate row 3 times. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings, on the 2^nd size there will be 1 extra st to cast off.

Sleeves

The patterning for sleeves is exactly the same as back and front i.e. knit 20 rows then start patterning. Push 96 Ns to WP. With WY cast on and knit several rows ending with COR. RC000 TD7 with MY in feeder A increasing 1 st each end of every 5^th row (every 5^th row for men to RC100 then every 4^th row) knit to RC150 (168 for men) when you will have 156 Ns (170 Ns for men) in WP. Knit straight to RC192 (202 for men) and cast off.

Cuffs

Push 64 Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows and transfer sts to main bed. With wrong side of sleeve facing you pick up sts onto Ns as follows. Put 1 st on the first Nd and 2 sts on the next, repeat this sequence to the end. Knit 1 row and cast off.

Collar

Push 130 Ns for first 3 sizes, 138 for remainder to WP. With MY cast on using E warp method, hang comb and add weights. RC000 TD6 knit 8 rows, TD5 knit 8 rows, TD4 knit 8 rows. Insert punchcard No3. (electronic owners program in row 1 to 3 and stitch 1 to stitch 2 and spread across bed) RC000 TD5 operating the lace carriage every 2 rows knit 12 rows, TD6 repeat last 12 rows, knit 3 plain rows and remove from machine on WY.

Mens Neckband

Push 146 (146:146:150:150:150) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. Cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 36 rows and transfer sts to main bed. TD6 knit 3 rows and remove from machine on WY.

To Make Up

Block all pieces to shape and steam press according to yarn label taking care not to flatten the pattern and avoiding the ribs. Join shoulder seams and press. Join collar or neckband together and pin to neck edge placing seam at centre back, ensuring that the collar or neckband overlaps the neck edge by 3 plain rows. Attach by back stitching through the last row of MY unravelling WY as you go, fold in half and slip stitch to inside. Set sleeves into armhole and press seam. Join side and sleeve seams and press avoiding ribs.

For years I have wanted to design a wedding dress for the machine knitter but never actually got round to it. During one of my many chats with Anne Smith (Machine Knitting Monthly) she convinced me to ”go for it” so here we are.

Also I felt in this economic climate, when we are all having to count the pennies, it made perfect sense. Having looked at wedding dresses for sale I was staggered to find a decent dress cost at least £600 and £1000 was not uncommon. The top I have created has cost approximately £32.75, which if you include the cost of materials for the skirt means you can create the whole dress for less than £100. Believe me it is not that difficult to do as I hope to prove, and the satisfaction gained is priceless. The following instructions apply to either top.

Materials required

1 Cone Yeoman’s Supersheen in Ivory or Sweetpea, used 2 fold throughout

Suitable Dress Pattern

1 metre 54” ivory or pink poult or taffeta

1 metre 54” lining

14 inch open end dress zip

Boning for bodice (see back of pattern for amount)

Beads and Sequins of choice

Machines

Any standard gauge punchcard machine or electronic with lace carriage

Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965

Pattern preparation

Tie a length of cord around the waist of whoever the top is intended for and measure back waist length (this is vital to ensure a good fit). Take a tape measure and place end on the prominent bone at base of neck and measure to cord. Usually this is somewhere between 15-17 inches, adjust pattern accordingly as described in pattern instructions.

The dress pattern I have used is Butterick B1431 costing £7.50 and I used view A as my base, but you can use any pattern of your choice. The only alteration I made was to make the bodice top straight instead of dipping in the centre at the bust line, as it does on the pattern. This is very easy to achieve as I will show you. The first thing to do after buying the pattern is to take out the 4 pieces required for the top, numbered 1, 2, 3, 4. If you wish to alter the bodice as I did, take the front piece No.2 and extend the centre front fold line about 2 inches / 5cm. at the neckline. Then simply draw a straight line from top of seam to centre front line as shown in diagram 1. On all the pieces a grain line is marked to indicate straight grain of fabric, using a rule, extend this line to the outer edges as shown (marked in red) in diagram 2.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

Lace Panels

We now need to knit 4 lace panels in a pattern of your choice. I have used Pattern 159 from Brothers Stitch World. You need 2 panels measuring approximately 15” x 18” / 38 x 46cm. and 2 panels 15” x 15” / 38 x 38cm. These measurements cover the first sizes up to size 16 (38” bust) for larger sizes measure the panels your using and adjust accordingly. I worked on size 12 (34” bust) throughout. In the lace pattern I used, 16 rows forms a complete pattern, you need 12 complete patterns for larger panel and 10 for the smaller. For the larger panels push 100 Ns (50/50) to WP and cast on using WY, hang a claw weight at each end and knit about 12 rows. RC000 TD4 enter desired lace pattern and with MY knit to RC192 (for larger sizes this will have to be adjusted) operating lace carriage as instructed. Take off on WY. For smaller panels work as for larger but knitting to RC160. Block pieces to the sizes stated and press.

Cutting out panels

Pin pattern onto the backing fabric (poult or taffeta) and mark notches, to be honest I do this very lightly using an ordinary pencil. Lightly mark the top and bottom of grainline and cut out all pieces.

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Sewing

Join side panels to front as described in the pattern instructions and press seams open using a seam roller, if you do not have one use a rolling pin wrapped in a tea towel. Join back sections and press seams open. At this stage I decided to do the beading as the panels are easier to handle, avoiding were the side seams are to be joined. These I beaded as necessary after sewing the back and front together and pressing the seams open. The beading can be as complex or simple as you want, as you can see in the close ups of the wedding dress beading, and the simplicity of the evening top were I only used sequins. In the case of the wedding dress I was fortunate to have mother of pearl cup sequins left over from a a brides dress I made 45 years ago? To which I added pearls bought by the metre at 60p and diamonte. For the evening top I just used purple cup sequins which were given to me in 1965, and I still have a couple of hundred left. It took me 10 days to embroider the wedding top, but to be fair the nerves in the ends of my fingers have been effected by the chemotherapy and I found the process a bit difficult. Otherwise I’m sure I would have been quicker. But as Anne said, if you can’t go overboard with embroidery on a wedding dress, when can you. With the beading finished sew the open end zip into back opening as described in the instructions.

Lining

Diagram 5

The boning on the bust seam is slightly trickier because of the fullness over the bust on the side panel. I recommend sewing the side which is nearest to the centre front first, this holds the boning in place and makes it easier for you to ease in the fullness of the side panel to avoid getting the fabric ruched. Pin bodice to lining, right sides together, matching seams and stitch as shown in the instructions. Turn through to right side and hand stitch lining to back of zip and press carefully. As you can see I have made a fringe of pearls along the bottom edge, which looks wonderful were it joins the skirt, this of course is optional

Evening top strapsFit the evening top onto the person its for and measure from the top of the bodice over the shoulder to back of bodice. Knit 4 straps (optional) about 1” longer than required by bringing to hold position centre 5 needles and E-wrap using yarn  3 fold and carefully hang a claw weight.

Evening top close up

Push in the left part button for circular knitting TD 4. I knit about 400 rows twice, using a blob of Bostik multi-purpose glue in the middle of each piece to anchor the stitches so you can then cut in half. Position on bodice and pin before attaching the the lining. I placed mine about 3.5cm. apart, then sew lining as for bodice. As you can see I also stitched the straps together on the shoulder, sequins could also be added to the straps if required. Finally, put the kettle on, make a cup of tea and put your feet up, you’ve earned it.

Carl

All photography in this article by Carl Boyd

seaspray

Materials
Yeoman Panama 4ply Cotton and Acrylic
Colour 214 Spray
1 Cone for first 2 sizes, 2 Cones for remainder

Sizes
To fit Bust 34 (36:38:40:42:44) inches
87 (92:97:102:107:112) cm
Actual all round measurement 38 (40:42:44:46:48) inches
97 (102:107:112:117:122) cm

Main Tension
30sts and 40 rows to 10cm measured over stocking stitch after sample has been washed and lightly pressed.

Machines
These instructions are written for standard gauge machines with ribber or Electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965 electronic.

Notes
All decreases and increases are made fully fashioned using a 3 pronged transfer tool. 6 sts extra have been allowed on front to counteract the pull in effect of the 3 cables.

Selvedge edge
To get a really neat selvedge edge this is the method I use to cast on.
TD0 on both beds knit 1 row and hang comb and weights. Up tension by 2 clicks on both beds, knit circular rows. TD1 on both beds, knit closing row. If too difficult on your machine keep moving up 1 click at a time.

Back
Push 144 (152:160:168:176:184) Ns to WP on both beds for full needle rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD3 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed. RC000 TD7 knit to RC124 and put a marker at each end. Decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC164 (20 dec. made each side). Continue straight to RC220 and divide for back neck shaping. Put a marker between centre Ns. Cast off the centre 44(44:46:48:52:52) sts and put Ns on left to hold position. Working on the right side knit 1 row. Cast off 4st on neck edge on the next and following alternate row 3 times (RC226). Start shoulder slope. Cast off 5(6:7:8:9:10)sts beg next row, on neck edge cast of 2 sts beginning next row (14 dec made on neck edge). Cast off 5(6:8:9:9:11)sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 (8:8:9:10:11:) sts and complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front
Push 150:158:166:174:182:190) Ns to WP on both beds for full needle rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed, leave ribber in position. Cable Panel. On right side of machine transfer the stitches on Ns 4&5, 10&11, 18&19 to the ribber. Repeat on left of machine making 3 cables of 6 sts with 4 sts in between each cable. RC000 TD7 10 rows and cable sts. Continuing to cable every 10 rows knit to RC124 and put a marker at each end. Decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC164 (20 dec. made each side). Continue straight to RC180 and divide for front neck shaping. Transfer all sts on ribber to main bed, drop ribber and change carriage. Put a marker between centre Ns. Cast off the centre 30(30:32:34:36:38)sts and put Ns on left to hold position. Working on the right side knit 1 row, on neck edge cast off 4 sts beg next row. Knit 1 row, cast off 3 sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off 2 sts beg next and following alt row 4 times. Knit 1 row . Dec 1st beg next and every following alternate row 6 times, knit 1 row. Dec 1 st every following 4th row 3 times(24 decs made on neck edge) Work straight to RC226. Start shoulder slope. Start shoulder slope. Cast off 5(6:7:8:9:10)sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off 5(6:8:9:9:11)sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 (8:8:9:10:11:) sts and complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeves
Push 72(74:76:78:80:82) Ns to WP on both beds for full nd rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed. Increases on the sleeve are worked fully fashioned. For those not sure move 2 sts outwards and take the heel of the 3rd st and place on empty Nd. RC000 TD7 Knit 2 rows, increasing 1st at each end of the next and every following 5th row knit to RC28 when you will have 84(86:88:90:92:94)Ns in work. Knit to RC31, increasing 1 st each end of the next and every following 6th row knit to RC116 when you will have 114(116:118:120:122:124) Ns in WP. Knit to RC120 and put a marker at each end of row. Decreasing on the next and every following alternate row knit to RC160 (20 dec. made each side). Now decrease 1st each end of every row to RC182 (22 dec. made each side). Now decrease 1st each end next and every following alternate row 3 times RC188. Place a marker between 2 centre Ns and cast off remaining 24(26:28:30:32:34) sts.

Collar Front
Push 56Ns to WP each side of centre (112 Ns) on main bed, with wrong side facing you pick up centre of neck onto the 2 centre Ns. Place the extreme outside edge of neckline on Ns 56 at each end, pick up remaining neck edge onto remaining Ns and hang a claw weight at each end. TD5 knit 1 row, TD6 knit one row. If you are not going to put pearls around the neck the following transfers can be ignored. Set RC000, starting on the left transfer the st on Nd50 to adjacent Nd on the right, then transfer the st on Ns 40, 30, 20and 10 to adjacent Nd. Transfer the st on the Nd. right of centre to Nd.2, then transfer st 11, 21, 31 etc. on the right of machine bed, to adjacent Nd. You should have 9 Nds in work between each transfer.TD6 knit 26 rows and cast off.

Collar Back
Push 36 Ns to WP each side of centre (72 Ns) and pick up back neck as for front. TD5 knit 1 row, TD6 knit one row. RC000 transfer sts as for front starting on Nd 30 left to Nd 31 Right. TD6 knit 26 rows and cast off.

To Make UP
Block all pieces to shape and press according to yarn label. Join shoulder seams and seam of roll collar. Roll the collar quite tightly into position. Working on the back neck and with right side facing starting with the last hole on the right shoulder thread pearls through going under the roll on the right side of sweater pulling through to last pearl, anchor pearl in place under roll. Bring pearls over the roll and back under going through next hole. Continue in this manner until you are back were you started and leave remaining pearls hanging loose for the time being. Make sure roll is over the seam created when you picked up the neck, working from inside slipstitch the seam to the roll to hold it in place taking care not to catch the pearls. On right side you can now adjust the pearls as necessary till you get them evenly spaced (see close up photograph). Once satisfied snip off remaining pearls and anchor the last one next to the one already anchored. Thread pearls (optional) through cable as shown in previous article and anchor into position on wrong side of sweater. Set sleeves into armhole and press seam. Mattress stitch cuff and welt and join side and sleeve seams and press.

A 48, 50.5, 53, 56, 58.5, 61cm
B 6 cm
C 30.5
D 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26, 26.5, 26.5 cm
E 35, 37.5, 40, 43, 45, 48
F 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5 cm
G 24 cm
H 30 cm
I 17 cm
J 39, 39.5, 40, 40.5, 41, 41.5 cm
K 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5 cm
Back neck depth 1.5 cm
Front neck depth 12.5 cm

Materials

Forsell’s 4 ply pure wool.

1 Cone for the first 3 sizes and 2 Cones for the rest.

Colour used 156 Silver Grey

Sizes

To fit bust 87 (92:97:102:107) cm.

Actual all around measurement 97 (102:107:112:117) cm.

Main Tension

30 sts and 41 rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch TD7 approx.

Machines

These instructions are written for standard gauge punch card machines with ribber or electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 950i Electronic

Back

Push 146 (154:162:170:178) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows. Transfer sts to main bed. RC000 TD7 knit to RC124. Cast off 15 (16:16:17:18) sts beginning next 2 rows then knit straight to RC226. Divide for back neck shaping. Cast off the centre 38 sts and put Ns on left in hold position. Working on right side knit 1 row. Dec 1 st on the neck edge on the next row. Start shoulder slope. Continue to dec 1 st on neck edge on the next 8 rows at the same time cast off 6 (6:8:8:8) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once then 6 (7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row 3 times. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front

Follow as for back to RC104. Transfer the st left of centre to the Nd right of centre leaving empty Nd in work and knit 2 rows. Transfer the same st to the same Nd and knit 5 rows. Each hole consists of these 7 rows and resembles the number 8. Remembering to work armhole decreases when RC124 is reached,knit 2 more holes (21 rows total). Working from left of centre transfer st 14 to Nd 13,the centre as before and st 13 to Nd 14. Working on these groups of Ns knit 3 more holes (another 21 rows). Transfer st 27 to Nd 26 the other groups as before and st 26 to ND 27 and work 3 more holes (RC167). Transfer st 40 to Nd 39 the other groups as before ans st 39 to Nd 40. Knit 3 more holes stopping at RC200 to divide for front neck shaping. Cast off the centre 22 sts and put Ns on left in hold position. Keeping continuity of pattern and working on right side dec 1 st on the neck edge on the next 9 rows. Knit 1 row. On the neck edge dec 1 st on the next and every following alternate row 8 times. Start shoulder slope. Keeping neck edge straight cast off 6 (6:8:8:8) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once then 6 (7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row 3 times. Complete the left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeve

Push 96 Ns to WP. With WY cast on and knit several rows ending with COR. RC000 TD7 with MY in feeder A increasing 1 st every 5^th row,knit 6 rows. Transfer sts as for front but starting st 27 to Nd 26 working across to st 26 Nd 27. working on these 5 transfers knit 7 holes on the outside,10 holes each side of centre and 13 holes in the centre. Continuing to increase every 5^th row until 148 Ns are in WP (130 rows). Knit straight to RC168 and cast off.

Front Braids

Push Ns 1,3 and 4 left of centre and Ns 2 and 3 right of centre to WP. Insert punch card and lock on row 1. cast on using E wrap method and hang a small claw weight. Push centre Nd to hold and set carriage to hold. TD7 knit 6 rows, push centre Nd back to D position and 2 rows, then return Nd to hold. These 8 rows form 1 shell. Knit 15 shells for centre braid. The last shell is cast off to a point as follows, transfer the 2 sts each side to the 2 Ns each side of centre which are out of work and knit 1 row. Transfer outside sts to centre Nd knit 1 row. Break off yarn and pull the last st right through to anchor off and form a point. Knit 4 more braids consisting of 12 shells and 2 braids of 10 shells.

Sleeve Braids

Working as for front knit 2 braids of 14 shells,4 of 11 shells and 4 of 8 shells.

Cuffs

Push 64 Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for 2×1 rib. Using MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 34 rows. Transfer sts to main bed. Take the 14 shell braid with wrong side facing and pick up 2 sts each side of cast on edge and place on the centre 2 Ns,place the 11 shell braid on Ns 9 and 10 each side and the 8 shell braid on Ns 18 and 19 each side. Block sleeve to shape and press according to yarn label. With wrong side of sleeve facing pick up the last row of MY and pick up sts as follows,place 1 st onto the first Nd and 2 sts onto the 2nd repeat to end. Knit 1 row on a larger tension and cast off.

Collar

Push 130 Ns to WP. With MY cast on using E wrap method. RC000 TD6 knit 8 rows,TD5 knit 8 rows,TD4 knit 16 rows,TD5 knit 8 rows,TD6 knit 11 rows and remove on WY.

To Make Up

Block remaining pieces to shape and press according to yarn label omitting ribs. Thread braids into front as follows, take the 15 shell centre braid and thread yarn hanging from point into tapestry needle or double eyed transfer tool. With right side facing and working from neck shaping thread the braid down through top of first hole and pull all the way through to last shell. Now thread up through bottom of hole and pull through so that the bar across the hole goes across between 2 shells. Proceed in this manner down front of sweater to last shell, hold last shell flat to garment and stitch point down by passing the thread from point through to wrong side of garment and anchor off. Thread remainder of braids down front keeping the 10 shell braids for the outside row. Stitch braids firmly at neck edge and trim off any surplus. Thread sleeves in the same manner working from cuff up. Join shoulder seams and press. Stitch collar together and pin to neck edge placing seam at centre back,ensuring that collar overlaps neck edge by 3 rows of the main yarn. Attach by back stitching through last row of MY unravelling WY as you go. Fold collar in half and slip stitch to inside. Set sleeves into armholes and press. Join sleeve and side seams and press avoiding ribs.

All the punch cards used are taken from my patterns produced years ago, but which I felt would make ideal designs for scatter cushions. The first cushion uses my Meadowsweet, pattern 27, the second is Joanna, pattern 23 and the third is Greek Lotus, pattern 26 but worked as mirror image. All the cushions have been knitted in 4-ply yarn and edged with either bought or kitted cords.

PREPARATION

The knitted square should be 1 inch larger than the cushion pad, so for the 22” cushion you need to knit a square approximately 23”. This allows 5/8 inch for seams the finished cover will measure slightly less than 22 in to ensure a nice close fit and plump cushion.

FIRST KNIT

Assuming the yarn used has a tension of approximately 30 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm/4” you need to cast on 172 stitches and knit 230 rows. You then block it to shape and press according to instructions on the yarn label.For the back of the cushions I prefer to use fabric in a matching shade, however for those who wish to do a knitted back proceed as follows.

Cast on (a weaving cast on is fine) the number of stitches you require for the size of cushion you’re making. Set RC  at 000 and knit 30 rows. Using a nylon cord knit one row and return carriage to right without knitting.Set RC at 000 and knit the number of rows you’ve calculated for the size you’re kitting minus 20 rows. Now cast off and press the piece according to yarn label.You now have to separate the two pieces by pulling out the nylon cord, but before doing this we must stitch either side to stabilise the stitches – in other words,treat the fabric as if preparing it for cut and sew. Most modern sewing machines have a stitch similar to zigzag that sews in groups of four stitches (see Diag. 1, stitch 2). This is the stitch I always use for cut and sew work, but it’s closed up so it resembles stitch 0 in Diag.1. Place the fabric under the machine foot as shown in Diag.2,  making sure the nylon cord is complete covered by the foot, as you don’t want the needle to catch the nylon cord. (to show up in photography, I used dark yarn instead of a nylon cord.) Sew down the entire length using the stitch described above, if you don’t have this stitch use zigzag instead. For those who don’t have a swing needle machine, work two rows of stitching close together. Now turn the fabric, sew down the other side of the cord and then remove the nylon cord. Place the two long edges with right sides and sewn edges together and stitch approx 1 1/2 in at each end using a 5/8 in seam allowance.The gap between the two stitched edges needs to be the length of the zip you are inserting. Press the seams open and then press up the seam allowance where the zip is to go.Tack edge of narrow piece close to teeth of zipper and stitch as shown in Diag.3.  Close zipper, tack the other edge over as shown in Diag.4  If you are using fabric for the back, the zip is inserted in exactly the same way.

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Circular cushions have to be made by the Cut and Sew method,which means making a template which is very easy to do. Take a piece of paper about 3” larger than the cushion size you’ve decided to make, the wrong side of a piece of old wallpaper is ideal. I used wall-lining paper that I always keep because  it’s cheap, lasts for ages and can be used for all sorts of craft work. Draw two lines half way across the paper in each direction to form a cross in the centre (see Diag.5).

Diagram 5

Take a piece of thin cardboard (a cereal box is ideal) and cut a 1/2 ” wide strip about 12 ” long. About 1/2 ” from one end, draw a straight line across, then from this line (for an 18 ” circular cushion),measure 9 1/2 ” and draw another line. Whatever size circle you need, add 1” for seams and then halve it to get the amount you need between the two lines. Place the paper on a firm surface into which you can place a pin (I used my blocking board and gently tapped the pin with a hammer.) Push a pin through the centre of the first line and through the cross on the paper (see Diag.6).

Diagram 6

Take the pointed end of a pair of scissors and make a small hole in the second line on the strip to take a biro or pencil. Now simply insert your pen and draw a circle (see Diag.7). After knitting your square, place the template on centrally and draw around with a suitable marker. Machine as described previously and cut out. My circular cushion is based on sample 5 from my article in the January 2008 issue of MKM, but sewing on a length of pearls instead of the running stitch at each side of the cable.

Diagram 7

For plain cushions I’d recommend using any tuck stitch design available or one taken from the basic patterns supplied with your machine.You could weave cushions with novelty yarns, or how about knitting a cat or dogs head in intarsia? It would be great for children, really – the list of ideas is endless. So come on girls,let’s get as creative as I know machine knitters can be!

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