Yeoman Fine Crepe
Colour 13 Lilac
1 Cone knit 3 fold

Sizes

To fit Bust 34 (36:38:40:42:44) inches
87 (92:97:102:107:112) cm
Actual all round measurement 38 (40:42:44:46:48) inches
97 (102:107:112:117:122) cm

Main Tension

30sts and 42 rows to 10cm measured over stocking stitch after sample has been washed and lightly pressed.

Machines

These instructions are written for standard gauge machines with ribber or Electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965 electronic.

Notes

When patterns are submitted to Machine Knitting Monthly they have to be changed to suit the magazine format. This pattern appears as originally written. All decreases and increases are made fully fashioned (except on sleevehead) using a 3 pronged transfer tool.

Back

Push 146 (154:162:170:178:186) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for full needle rib. Set tension dials on both beds to 0/0 knit one row and hang cast on comb and add weights. Increase the tension by 3 clicks on both beds and knit the circular rows. Set tension dial on both beds to1/1 and knit closing row. If its too difficult on your machine, keep increasing the tension dial by one click at a time until the carriage will go across. RC000 TD2/2 on both beds knit 20 rows. Transfer sts to main bed. Set RC000 TD6 Start side shaping. Knit 6 rows, dec 1 st at each end of the next and every following 6th row to RC42 (7 decs made each side). Work straight to RC76. Increase 1 st at each end of the next and every following 6th row to RC114 (7 increases made each side). Knit to RC124 and put a marker at each end. RC000 decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC40 (20 dec. made each side). Continue straight to RC100 and divide for back neck shaping. Put a marker between centre Ns. Cast off the centre 38 sts and put Ns on left to hold position and set carriage to hold. Working on the right side knit 1 row. Dec.1st on neck edge on the next row. Start shoulder slope. Continue to dec. 1st on the neck edge on the next 8 rows, at the same time cast off 5(6:6:8:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit 1 row. Now cast off 5(6:7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit one row. Cast off remaining 5(5:7:7:9:9) sts. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front

Push 146 (154:162:170:178:186) Ns to WP on both beds and arrange for full needle rib. Work as for back to RC124 and put a marker at each end. RC000 decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC18, start V neck shaping. Continuing to decrease on armhole edge as before, decrease1 st on neck edge on the next row. Knit 2 rows (RC21) decrease 1 st beginning the next and every following 3rd row until 28 decreases have been made on neck edge RC100, knit 2 more rows and start shoulder slope. Cast off 5 (6:6:8:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit 1 row. Now cast off 5 (6:7:7:8:9) sts beginning the next and following alternate row once, knit one row. Cast off remaining 5(5:7:7:9:9) sts. Complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeves

Push 72(74:76:78:80:82) Ns to WP on both beds for full needle rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2/2 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed. Increases on the sleeve are worked fully fashioned (optional). For those not sure move 3sts outwards and take the heel of the 4th st and place on empty Nd. RC000 TD6 Knit 2 rows. Shape sides by increasing 1 st at each end of t he next and every foll 5th row to RC28 when 84(86:88:90:92:94)Ns. will be in work. Knit 3 rows (RC31). Increasing 1st each end next and every following 6th row knit to RC116 when you will have 114(116:118:120:122:124)Ns in work. Knit to RC120 and place a marker at each end of row. Now decrease 1st at each end of next and every following alternate row to RC160 (20 dec made each side). The next decreases are best done not fully fashioned as this makes a neater seam on the sleeve head. Now decrease 1 st each end of every row to RC182 (22 dec made each side). Decrease 1 st each end next and every following alternate row 3 times (RC 188). Place a marker between the 2 centre Ns and cast off remaining 24(26:28:30:32:34) sts.

Neck Frill Left side

Push 95 Ns each side of centre to working position on both beds and arrange for full needle rib (190 Ns). Using yarn twofold Cast on and knit selvedge. On main bed, working on the right push every 6th Nd to hold position and switch carriage to hold. RC000 TD4/4 knit 2 rows, on the right decrease 1 st on both beds fully fashioned using a 2 pronged transfer tool. Knit 2 rows and repeat decreasings. Knit 1 row and cancel hold, knit closing row. Transfer all sts main bed. Knit 2 rows then decrease 1 st still on the right (not FF) Repeat the last 2 rows and decreasing to RC28 ommitting the decreasing on last 2 rows (12 dec made all told). Remove on W/Y

Neck Frill Right side

Follow as for left reversing shapings.

Blocking frill pieces

Run a binding wire across the top of the scallops on the first row of plain knitting.Take a length of paper about 6 x 30 inches, old wallpaper is ideal. Draw 2 straight lines 1 inch apart all the way across and lay on a surface that can be pinned to. Pin binding wire to top line all the way along, pull each scallop to a point and pin as in Diagram 1, press.

Adding frill to neck

Push 45Ns right of centre and 44Ns left to working position for left hand side of neck. Take left side of frill and with wrong side facing, working from the right place 2 sts from the last row on each needle leaving WY in place (decreased edge will be on the right). Join back and front together at shoulders and press seam. With wrong side of garment facing place centre back neck on Nd 44 on the left and centre of V on Nd 45 on the right. Place the shoulder seam in between Ns 20 and 21 on the left pulling those Ns through either side, pick up remainder of neck evenly across the bed, push all Ns to hold position to ensure all sts knit off correctly. RC000 TD4 Using yarn threefold knit 11 rows, TD 8 knit 1 row and cast off. Remove WY.

Complete right side to match reversing shapings. Join shaped centre front of frill using mattress stitch.

Making Up

Block sleeves to shape and press according to yarn label. Set sleeves into armhole matching markers, placing centre sleeve marker at shoulder seam and stitch. Join welt and side seam using mattress stitch and join sleeve seam having mattress stitched cuff welt. Press all seams.

Join centre back and front of frill using matress stitch. Join roll edge seams at back and front, rolling the front up quite firmly and catch down so it can’t move. Turn to inside and with a few stitches draw the V together to form a nice V at the front.

Depth of V neck 20cm

A 48, 50.5, 53, 56, 58.5, 61cm

B 6 cm

C 30.5cm

D 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26, 26.5, 26.5 cm

E 2.5cm

F 35, 37.5, 40, 43, 45, 48 cm

G 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5 cm

H 23 cm

I 30 cm

J 17 cm

K 39, 39

All the punch cards used are taken from my patterns produced years ago, but which I felt would make ideal designs for scatter cushions. The first cushion uses my Meadowsweet, pattern 27, the second is Joanna, pattern 23 and the third is Greek Lotus, pattern 26 but worked as mirror image. All the cushions have been knitted in 4-ply yarn and edged with either bought or kitted cords.

PREPARATION

The knitted square should be 1 inch larger than the cushion pad, so for the 22” cushion you need to knit a square approximately 23”. This allows 5/8 inch for seams the finished cover will measure slightly less than 22 in to ensure a nice close fit and plump cushion.

FIRST KNIT

Assuming the yarn used has a tension of approximately 30 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm/4” you need to cast on 172 stitches and knit 230 rows. You then block it to shape and press according to instructions on the yarn label.For the back of the cushions I prefer to use fabric in a matching shade, however for those who wish to do a knitted back proceed as follows.

Cast on (a weaving cast on is fine) the number of stitches you require for the size of cushion you’re making. Set RC  at 000 and knit 30 rows. Using a nylon cord knit one row and return carriage to right without knitting.Set RC at 000 and knit the number of rows you’ve calculated for the size you’re kitting minus 20 rows. Now cast off and press the piece according to yarn label.You now have to separate the two pieces by pulling out the nylon cord, but before doing this we must stitch either side to stabilise the stitches – in other words,treat the fabric as if preparing it for cut and sew. Most modern sewing machines have a stitch similar to zigzag that sews in groups of four stitches (see Diag. 1, stitch 2). This is the stitch I always use for cut and sew work, but it’s closed up so it resembles stitch 0 in Diag.1. Place the fabric under the machine foot as shown in Diag.2,  making sure the nylon cord is complete covered by the foot, as you don’t want the needle to catch the nylon cord. (to show up in photography, I used dark yarn instead of a nylon cord.) Sew down the entire length using the stitch described above, if you don’t have this stitch use zigzag instead. For those who don’t have a swing needle machine, work two rows of stitching close together. Now turn the fabric, sew down the other side of the cord and then remove the nylon cord. Place the two long edges with right sides and sewn edges together and stitch approx 1 1/2 in at each end using a 5/8 in seam allowance.The gap between the two stitched edges needs to be the length of the zip you are inserting. Press the seams open and then press up the seam allowance where the zip is to go.Tack edge of narrow piece close to teeth of zipper and stitch as shown in Diag.3.  Close zipper, tack the other edge over as shown in Diag.4  If you are using fabric for the back, the zip is inserted in exactly the same way.

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Circular cushions have to be made by the Cut and Sew method,which means making a template which is very easy to do. Take a piece of paper about 3” larger than the cushion size you’ve decided to make, the wrong side of a piece of old wallpaper is ideal. I used wall-lining paper that I always keep because  it’s cheap, lasts for ages and can be used for all sorts of craft work. Draw two lines half way across the paper in each direction to form a cross in the centre (see Diag.5).

Diagram 5

Take a piece of thin cardboard (a cereal box is ideal) and cut a 1/2 ” wide strip about 12 ” long. About 1/2 ” from one end, draw a straight line across, then from this line (for an 18 ” circular cushion),measure 9 1/2 ” and draw another line. Whatever size circle you need, add 1” for seams and then halve it to get the amount you need between the two lines. Place the paper on a firm surface into which you can place a pin (I used my blocking board and gently tapped the pin with a hammer.) Push a pin through the centre of the first line and through the cross on the paper (see Diag.6).

Diagram 6

Take the pointed end of a pair of scissors and make a small hole in the second line on the strip to take a biro or pencil. Now simply insert your pen and draw a circle (see Diag.7). After knitting your square, place the template on centrally and draw around with a suitable marker. Machine as described previously and cut out. My circular cushion is based on sample 5 from my article in the January 2008 issue of MKM, but sewing on a length of pearls instead of the running stitch at each side of the cable.

Diagram 7

For plain cushions I’d recommend using any tuck stitch design available or one taken from the basic patterns supplied with your machine.You could weave cushions with novelty yarns, or how about knitting a cat or dogs head in intarsia? It would be great for children, really – the list of ideas is endless. So come on girls,let’s get as creative as I know machine knitters can be!

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