seaspray

Materials
Yeoman Panama 4ply Cotton and Acrylic
Colour 214 Spray
1 Cone for first 2 sizes, 2 Cones for remainder

Sizes
To fit Bust 34 (36:38:40:42:44) inches
87 (92:97:102:107:112) cm
Actual all round measurement 38 (40:42:44:46:48) inches
97 (102:107:112:117:122) cm

Main Tension
30sts and 40 rows to 10cm measured over stocking stitch after sample has been washed and lightly pressed.

Machines
These instructions are written for standard gauge machines with ribber or Electronic machines. Garment illustrated was knit on a Brother 965 electronic.

Notes
All decreases and increases are made fully fashioned using a 3 pronged transfer tool. 6 sts extra have been allowed on front to counteract the pull in effect of the 3 cables.

Selvedge edge
To get a really neat selvedge edge this is the method I use to cast on.
TD0 on both beds knit 1 row and hang comb and weights. Up tension by 2 clicks on both beds, knit circular rows. TD1 on both beds, knit closing row. If too difficult on your machine keep moving up 1 click at a time.

Back
Push 144 (152:160:168:176:184) Ns to WP on both beds for full needle rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD3 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed. RC000 TD7 knit to RC124 and put a marker at each end. Decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC164 (20 dec. made each side). Continue straight to RC220 and divide for back neck shaping. Put a marker between centre Ns. Cast off the centre 44(44:46:48:52:52) sts and put Ns on left to hold position. Working on the right side knit 1 row. Cast off 4st on neck edge on the next and following alternate row 3 times (RC226). Start shoulder slope. Cast off 5(6:7:8:9:10)sts beg next row, on neck edge cast of 2 sts beginning next row (14 dec made on neck edge). Cast off 5(6:8:9:9:11)sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 (8:8:9:10:11:) sts and complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Front
Push 150:158:166:174:182:190) Ns to WP on both beds for full needle rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed, leave ribber in position. Cable Panel. On right side of machine transfer the stitches on Ns 4&5, 10&11, 18&19 to the ribber. Repeat on left of machine making 3 cables of 6 sts with 4 sts in between each cable. RC000 TD7 10 rows and cable sts. Continuing to cable every 10 rows knit to RC124 and put a marker at each end. Decrease 1 st each end the next and every following alternate row to RC164 (20 dec. made each side). Continue straight to RC180 and divide for front neck shaping. Transfer all sts on ribber to main bed, drop ribber and change carriage. Put a marker between centre Ns. Cast off the centre 30(30:32:34:36:38)sts and put Ns on left to hold position. Working on the right side knit 1 row, on neck edge cast off 4 sts beg next row. Knit 1 row, cast off 3 sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off 2 sts beg next and following alt row 4 times. Knit 1 row . Dec 1st beg next and every following alternate row 6 times, knit 1 row. Dec 1 st every following 4th row 3 times(24 decs made on neck edge) Work straight to RC226. Start shoulder slope. Start shoulder slope. Cast off 5(6:7:8:9:10)sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off 5(6:8:9:9:11)sts beg next row, knit 1 row. Cast off remaining 6 (8:8:9:10:11:) sts and complete left side to match right reversing shapings.

Sleeves
Push 72(74:76:78:80:82) Ns to WP on both beds for full nd rib. With MY cast on and knit selvedge. RC000 TD2 knit 20 rows and transfer sts to main bed. Increases on the sleeve are worked fully fashioned. For those not sure move 2 sts outwards and take the heel of the 3rd st and place on empty Nd. RC000 TD7 Knit 2 rows, increasing 1st at each end of the next and every following 5th row knit to RC28 when you will have 84(86:88:90:92:94)Ns in work. Knit to RC31, increasing 1 st each end of the next and every following 6th row knit to RC116 when you will have 114(116:118:120:122:124) Ns in WP. Knit to RC120 and put a marker at each end of row. Decreasing on the next and every following alternate row knit to RC160 (20 dec. made each side). Now decrease 1st each end of every row to RC182 (22 dec. made each side). Now decrease 1st each end next and every following alternate row 3 times RC188. Place a marker between 2 centre Ns and cast off remaining 24(26:28:30:32:34) sts.

Collar Front
Push 56Ns to WP each side of centre (112 Ns) on main bed, with wrong side facing you pick up centre of neck onto the 2 centre Ns. Place the extreme outside edge of neckline on Ns 56 at each end, pick up remaining neck edge onto remaining Ns and hang a claw weight at each end. TD5 knit 1 row, TD6 knit one row. If you are not going to put pearls around the neck the following transfers can be ignored. Set RC000, starting on the left transfer the st on Nd50 to adjacent Nd on the right, then transfer the st on Ns 40, 30, 20and 10 to adjacent Nd. Transfer the st on the Nd. right of centre to Nd.2, then transfer st 11, 21, 31 etc. on the right of machine bed, to adjacent Nd. You should have 9 Nds in work between each transfer.TD6 knit 26 rows and cast off.

Collar Back
Push 36 Ns to WP each side of centre (72 Ns) and pick up back neck as for front. TD5 knit 1 row, TD6 knit one row. RC000 transfer sts as for front starting on Nd 30 left to Nd 31 Right. TD6 knit 26 rows and cast off.

To Make UP
Block all pieces to shape and press according to yarn label. Join shoulder seams and seam of roll collar. Roll the collar quite tightly into position. Working on the back neck and with right side facing starting with the last hole on the right shoulder thread pearls through going under the roll on the right side of sweater pulling through to last pearl, anchor pearl in place under roll. Bring pearls over the roll and back under going through next hole. Continue in this manner until you are back were you started and leave remaining pearls hanging loose for the time being. Make sure roll is over the seam created when you picked up the neck, working from inside slipstitch the seam to the roll to hold it in place taking care not to catch the pearls. On right side you can now adjust the pearls as necessary till you get them evenly spaced (see close up photograph). Once satisfied snip off remaining pearls and anchor the last one next to the one already anchored. Thread pearls (optional) through cable as shown in previous article and anchor into position on wrong side of sweater. Set sleeves into armhole and press seam. Mattress stitch cuff and welt and join side and sleeve seams and press.

A 48, 50.5, 53, 56, 58.5, 61cm
B 6 cm
C 30.5
D 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26, 26.5, 26.5 cm
E 35, 37.5, 40, 43, 45, 48
F 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5 cm
G 24 cm
H 30 cm
I 17 cm
J 39, 39.5, 40, 40.5, 41, 41.5 cm
K 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5 cm
Back neck depth 1.5 cm
Front neck depth 12.5 cm

Diagram 1

First knit a sample about 60 nds x 60 rows leaving needle 15 right of centre out of work ( knit about 4 rows before putting ndl 15 out of work ), press sample. With wrong side of sample facing place a finger behind the ladder and you will see how easy it is to see through.

Sample 1

Now take a length of pearl (cut slightly longer than required ) and place on right side of sample in line with the ladder, you can pin this in place if you prefer, I just held it in place with my left hand as I was working from left to right.

Working on the wrong side, pull two of the pearls through at the beginning of the ladder and secure. Pass the tapestry needle down through the ladder between the next 2 pearls and back up again pulling thread through, miss 2 threads of the ladder and pass needle between next 2 pearls etc, it’s as easy as that. Examine first row of pearls on sample No.1 and you can see there is a thread between each pearl. For the second row I simply worked from the right side and kept one row of stitches as my guide, because they are on top of the knitting and not following a ladder as a guide they stand out more.

Sample 2

For sample No.2 first row, I used the same method but stitched with a gold thread used double to achieve this lovely effect. For the second row I just added the finer beads each side stitching on with fine lilac thread. It’s so simple to do but the effect looks very professional.

Now that you can see how simple this  is why not try something more ambitious like sample No.3.

Sample 3

Using paper or thin card (a cereal box is ideal) cut out a shape of your choice, diamond, circle, heart or as I did a simple paisley shape. Lay this on your sample right side up and draw around the outline with tailors chalk or similar marker.

Now using the same method as before sew pearls on following the outline, adding extra rows as you see fit. These pearls and beads are available in many colours and various thicknesses, there is no limit to what you can achieve. I would recommend if you are going to decorate a garment, doing it before you make it up. Don’t forget if you are doing this on a neckline, the pearls have no give. Just imagine doing a lovely job and then finding you could not get your head through !!!

Hopefully samples No.4 & 5 will give you the same feeling of excitement as it gave me when I discovered the technique.

Diagram 2

First look at diagram No.2 and see how easy the procedure is. Take a length of pearls, braid or even fine chain and simply thread up through the cable using one of the methods in the diagram, secure at both ends and the job is done.

Sample 5

Sample 4

It’s the simplicity of achieving such a stunning result that excited me so much. Also don’t forget you can do this on a bought garment, this of course means that manufacturers will quickly cotton on, so don’t forget you saw it here first. The other beauty of it is that when you tire of the look simply undo both ends and pull it out.

Really hope this and the previous article will spur you on to experiment. Its great fun to do and so rewarding. See pattern Sea Spray which was designed specifically for this technique.

Carl

]]> http://www.carlboyd.com/2009/01/26/cable-magic-with-pearls/feed/ 2