Creating Aran Style Tuck Stitch

Carl Boyd — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:27:04 +0000

It is quite surprising the effect that transferring certain stitches to the ribber bed has on basic tuck stitch patterns. The examples I will be showing you have all been taken from Brother’s Stitch World but are all 12 or 24 stitch patterns. It is vital that end needle selection must be switched off for this technique.

Sample 1

Sample 2

Punchcard 1

The first pattern I have chosen really demonstrates this technique. Sample No.1 shows the pattern Stitch World 258 knit as a straightforward tuck stitch. Sample No.2 shows that transferring the stitches marked on the puncard to the ribber bed, has a dramatic effect on the sample, immediately bringing it to life. The ribber bed tension is set to 2 numbers lower than the main bed, example main bed T7 ribber T5 depending on yarn being used. The yarn I have used is pure wool 4ply.

Sample 3

Sample 4

Punchcard 2

In Sample No.3 I have used Stitch World 259 a good basic tuck stitch which is really enhanced by the stitch transfer as shown in Sample No.4.

Sample 5

Sample 6

Punchcard 3

Sample No.5 Stitch World 265 is another tuck stitch that lends itself to this technique as can be seen in sample No.6 which is greatly enhanced by a simple stitch transfer.

With sample No.7 and 8 further interest could be added by cabling the stitches on the ribber bed on row 2 and every following 22^nd row thereafter.

Sample 7

Sample 8

Punchcard 4

This technique I used 12 years ago when I designed pattern No.49 The Aran Look. Because the shape and and loose fitting style is now out of date I would not advocate using this pattern, however the punchcard and technique is still worth looking at. I have knit Sample No.9 so you can see how effective this is and here are the instructions.

Sample 9

Punchcard 5

Transfer the sts marked on punchcard to ribber leaving main bed Ns out of work, for example transfer stitch on Ns 9, 11 and 12 left of centre to ribber and Ns 8, 10 and 11 right of centre and repeat across the bed. RC000 and both tuck buttons in on main bed knit to RC16. On ribber bed working on the first group of 6Ns left of centre cable the sts on Nds 15 and 17 transfering the inside Nds first then repeat on Ns 9 and 11 right of centre. Repeat on all groups across the bed. Repeating the cabling every 21 rows ie. RC37, 58 etc. When time permits I will create a new up to date pattern to use with this punchcard. I think it would work very well as a jacket.

Carl

Scatter Cushions

Carl Boyd — Thu, 22 Jan 2009 13:55:30 +0000

All the punch cards used are taken from my patterns produced years ago, but which I felt would make ideal designs for scatter cushions. The first cushion uses my Meadowsweet, pattern 27, the second is Joanna, pattern 23 and the third is Greek Lotus, pattern 26 but worked as mirror image. All the cushions have been knitted in 4-ply yarn and edged with either bought or kitted cords.

PREPARATION

The knitted square should be 1 inch larger than the cushion pad, so for the 22” cushion you need to knit a square approximately 23”. This allows 5/8 inch for seams the finished cover will measure slightly less than 22 in to ensure a nice close fit and plump cushion.

FIRST KNIT

Assuming the yarn used has a tension of approximately 30 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm/4” you need to cast on 172 stitches and knit 230 rows. You then block it to shape and press according to instructions on the yarn label.For the back of the cushions I prefer to use fabric in a matching shade, however for those who wish to do a knitted back proceed as follows.

Cast on (a weaving cast on is fine) the number of stitches you require for the size of cushion you’re making. Set RC at 000 and knit 30 rows. Using a nylon cord knit one row and return carriage to right without knitting.Set RC at 000 and knit the number of rows you’ve calculated for the size you’re kitting minus 20 rows. Now cast off and press the piece according to yarn label.You now have to separate the two pieces by pulling out the nylon cord, but before doing this we must stitch either side to stabilise the stitches – in other words,treat the fabric as if preparing it for cut and sew. Most modern sewing machines have a stitch similar to zigzag that sews in groups of four stitches (see Diag. 1, stitch 2). This is the stitch I always use for cut and sew work, but it’s closed up so it resembles stitch 0 in Diag.1. Place the fabric under the machine foot as shown in Diag.2, making sure the nylon cord is complete covered by the foot, as you don’t want the needle to catch the nylon cord. (to show up in photography, I used dark yarn instead of a nylon cord.) Sew down the entire length using the stitch described above, if you don’t have this stitch use zigzag instead. For those who don’t have a swing needle machine, work two rows of stitching close together. Now turn the fabric, sew down the other side of the cord and then remove the nylon cord. Place the two long edges with right sides and sewn edges together and stitch approx 1 1/2 in at each end using a 5/8 in seam allowance.The gap between the two stitched edges needs to be the length of the zip you are inserting. Press the seams open and then press up the seam allowance where the zip is to go.Tack edge of narrow piece close to teeth of zipper and stitch as shown in Diag.3. Close zipper, tack the other edge over as shown in Diag.4 If you are using fabric for the back, the zip is inserted in exactly the same way.

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Circular cushions have to be made by the Cut and Sew method,which means making a template which is very easy to do. Take a piece of paper about 3” larger than the cushion size you’ve decided to make, the wrong side of a piece of old wallpaper is ideal. I used wall-lining paper that I always keep because it’s cheap, lasts for ages and can be used for all sorts of craft work. Draw two lines half way across the paper in each direction to form a cross in the centre (see Diag.5).

Diagram 5

Take a piece of thin cardboard (a cereal box is ideal) and cut a 1/2 ” wide strip about 12 ” long. About 1/2 ” from one end, draw a straight line across, then from this line (for an 18 ” circular cushion),measure 9 1/2 ” and draw another line. Whatever size circle you need, add 1” for seams and then halve it to get the amount you need between the two lines. Place the paper on a firm surface into which you can place a pin (I used my blocking board and gently tapped the pin with a hammer.) Push a pin through the centre of the first line and through the cross on the paper (see Diag.6).

Diagram 6

Take the pointed end of a pair of scissors and make a small hole in the second line on the strip to take a biro or pencil. Now simply insert your pen and draw a circle (see Diag.7). After knitting your square, place the template on centrally and draw around with a suitable marker. Machine as described previously and cut out. My circular cushion is based on sample 5 from my article in the January 2008 issue of MKM, but sewing on a length of pearls instead of the running stitch at each side of the cable.

Diagram 7

For plain cushions I’d recommend using any tuck stitch design available or one taken from the basic patterns supplied with your machine.You could weave cushions with novelty yarns, or how about knitting a cat or dogs head in intarsia? It would be great for children, really – the list of ideas is endless. So come on girls,let’s get as creative as I know machine knitters can be!

Carl Boyd » punch cards

Creating Aran Style Tuck Stitch

Scatter Cushions